By noontime, we trooped to Mestre Train Station for our ride to Florence. Made sure our trip has 0 stops as I doubt we have the energy to switch trains and drag our big bags. We were famished by the time we reached Firenze SMN Station. Our apartment is just off the Basilica Di Santa Maria Novella but it took all of our energy to walk with our luggage in tow. Having checked in, we fell in love with our apartment. With 6 nights to spend here, I’ve decided to stay in for a much-needed rest to recover my sapped energy, do the laundry (3 weeks load!) and send off the apos to make other arrangements like meet some friends, hit more art galleries, do shopping or whatever else in the next 2 days. The NEXT couple of days. Today, some introductions are in order.
Basilica of Santa Maria Novella The oldest pharmacy — now perfumery — in the world.
As soon as we loaded the first batch of laundry into the washing machine, we took off. Very near our apartment is the oldest running pharmacy in Florence, and in the world: the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella. It all started in 1221 with Dominican friars developing a botanical garden of plants and herbs to produce healing ointments, balms and other medicines. Over time, the concoctions produced perfumes which counted royalties and prominent families among its clients. We sniffed around — and liked the scents but didn’t end up buying any. From this pharmacy, we walked a few blocks to reach Palazzo Strozzi where we promptly bought tickets to view Anselm Kiefer’s exhibit “Fallen Angels”. Very impressive. Not our first impression though, but his art grows on you as you spend more time with the artworks.
Kiefer’s “Fallen Angels” in Palazzo Strozzi
On our first day in Florence, we passed the Piazza Di Santa Maria Novella, visited the world’s oldest pharmacy, viewed an art exhibit, admired the magnificent Duomo, chanced upon the Odeon Theater cum Bookshop, and ended up in Mercato Centrale for dinner. We wanted to eat in the nearby trattorias but we were so hungry that we found the long lines frustrating. And so, we had our first bistecca florentina at the Mercato. Rarely that we dined without any conversation, but this is one moment. We devoured the Chianina beef like there’s no tomorrow. Gelato for a good finish and we had the best flavor ever — buontalenti, named after Bernardo Buontalenti, the Florentine inventor of Gelato.
Bistecca alla Florentina GelatoMercato Centrale
Having crossed 3 timezones, I looked forward to the next 2 days of doing nothing. Well, not exactly nothing. Like a doting abuela, I did the laundry and even cooked dinner. I also managed to book excursions for the next 2 days : one to Cinque Terre and another day trip to visit Siena, San Gimignano, Chianti and Monteriggioni. Plus a dinner booking at a nearby Trattoria il Giardino. Nieto y Nieta were on their own the first 2 whole days in Firenze, meeting their Abuela only for dinner either at the apartment (for a home cooked meal) or in a nearby trattoria. We did return to the Mercato Centrale to buy dinner to eat in the apartment. Even the young get exhausted as they preferred to stay in in the apartment that became our cozy home for a week. And they’re only on their second week while their Abuela has already clocked 6 weeks. 😜
Good pasta, osso buco and coccoliSoft music on a chilly night. I’m on holiday 💤
The original plan was just Chile and Peru either via California or Sydney. Choosing the latter, it was a no brainer to fly ahead and spend some weeks there to be with family. And then the Venice exhibit of Nieta popped up. Of course, we had to be there! But there’s the business of visas and bookings. And I’d be on my last couple of days in Peru when the vernissage and exhibit opening happens. Apos would have to go on their own while their abuela arranges to later join them. My brain matter was all over the place. Temporary hotel bookings were made but the flights out of Lima, Peru didn’t offer many options. That last seat was non-refundable and non-rebookable. Take it or leave it. I took it. Problem is I’d be flying from Puno to Lima, Peru a day prior on LatAm and based on my previous experiences, this airline wasn’t the most reliable. Sweeping all anxieties aside, I crossed my fingers and prayed for a seamless flight out of Lima to arrive in time for the Venice Biennale 2024 exhibit opening.
Touchdown, Venezia! Around Venice
The Iberia flight out of Lima had a Madrid stopover. I was tempted to enjoy some churros or tapas with Rioja but chose to remain sober and clear-minded for the connecting flight. Can’t miss this connection. Anxieties spilling all over, overflowing. Thankfully, the flight was uneventful and so was the airport shuttle I took for Mestre Station near our hotel in Venice. Oh, did I tell you? The hotel I booked in Venice near the exhibit venue cancelled our booking. A major headache since the Venice Biennale 2024 was already in full swing and most hotels are either fully booked or if available, at outrageous rates! Because my apos will arrive some days before me, I wanted to make sure they have reliable hotel bookings and that being first-timers in Venezia, they will easily find their hotel. Venice being Venice, it isn’t easy wandering around this car-less city and dragging luggage from one vaporetto station to the next. So Mestre was our choice. And what a relief hearing these 2 apos calling out to me as soon as I got off the shuttle at the Mestre train station. All’s well. We’re together now. And as soon as I dropped off my bag in our hotel, we took off for lunch and the exhibit.
Lunch was here.
After lunch, we proceeded to Palazzo Mora to view apo’s “From Here, To There” artwork. I may have missed the cocktail reception for the artists and invited friends, but I got here in time for the public opening. Said a Thanksgiving prayer, as I felt my heartswell with pride and love. Not just for apo’s piece but also for the 11 artworks of other participating Filipino visual artists included in this exhibition in Venezia. So proud of all of them. I was nearly dancing out of Palazzo Mora when done, and celebrated with apos with a gondola ride to imbibe Venetian vibes and savor every moment of this magical moment. The gondolier sang us a beautiful Italian song — not the typical O Sole Mio or Santa Lucia, but it was beautiful and so soothing on an exciting day like this one. Our nerves calmed, we hopped out of the gondola to wander around St. Mark’s Square, Bridge of Sighs and the Rialto Bridge.
Dreams do come true. I cried just viewing Nieta’s artwork in Palazzo Mora. Our Gondola Ride
While apos have been here some days before me, I spent only a night here as we’ve decided to train out the next day for our next base for Tuscan excursions in Firenze. It’s my 5th visit here but felt like it was my 1st as I saw Venice through Nieto y Nieta’s perspectives. We wandered around while enjoying our gelatos and rode the vaporettos with the locals. All in a half day. By sundown, I was ready to drop. Bushed. Can’t even remember where we had dinner. I only managed to take a bath and pull out my sleeping garment and next-day wardrobe for the train ride to Florence. Mercifully, the train leaves noontime so we were all able to sleep in the whole morning. 💤
Planned years ago but then, the pandemic threw a monkey wrench on our travel calendar for 2020. Postponed a couple of times, we finally managed to pull through this 2024 minus some friends originally in the list. We’ve settled on Chile and Peru but not without some major iti changes like dropping Atacama Desert and instead including Patagonia. We were also close to implementing “Plan B” as half in our group have not obtained Chilean visas a good week before the trip. In the end, all of us but one got our visas. The one who didn’t just caught up with us in Peru for the second leg of the trip.
Santiago, Chile
While I spent 3 weeks in Sydney prior to this South American adventure, I caught up with the group at the Sydney Airport for our trip to Santiago, Chile. They flew in from Manila for the connecting flight Down Under. The others chose to fly in to Chile from California. We also planned to enjoy 3 rest days prior to the start of the tour to rev up ourenergy, especially considering that this travel itinerary involves 6 domestic and regional flights. And that does not include a 10 hour bus ride from Cusco to Puno. Thinking back, it sure is a hectic, tiring and challenging journey. Only our excitement and sworn resolve to endure were going for us. And true, the familiarity and tested friendship helped along.
Lago Pehoe in Patagonia
The second leg of the journey spawned a few health concerns. Altitude sickness hit some of us especially as we moved from Cusco towards Lake Titicaca. It helped that the novelty and the magnificent scenery helped us endure some ailments, and that our hotels were well-prepared and accustomed to deal with such adversities. Not to be dismissed is the fact that we had very good guides in Patagonia, Cusco, Machu Picchu and Puno. We drew a lot of comfort in that. As we dwelled on our travel joys and woes, we all agreed that while the trip is longer and more tiring than most of our previous travels, we totally enjoyed it as the spots we visited are simply magical and breathtaking.
Lunch in Cusco
Here’s the blog summary of our adventures in Chile and Peru.
Except for my piece on Cusco, all other blog links refer to our recent (2024) trip. It has been a while since I’ve done a really lengthy trip — this time, crossing 3 timezones. From Down Under (Sydney) to South America (Chile and Peru) to Italy. Watch out for my blogs on our Italian holiday with Nieto y Nieta. It’s a rather short one but never lacking in new adventures. After all, there is always something new to do or check out in Italy. Ciao!
Can’t believe I paid big bucks for this. Sure, I anticipated the racing heartbeat and low oxygen levels, but diarrhea? And not just moí — others in our traveling group experienced upset stomachs too. Just another offshoot of altitude sickness, they say. But we endured. Puno is where you’d find Lake Titicaca, the largest freshwater lake in South America and the highest navigable lake in the world. There are less than 20 “ancient” lakes on earth and Titicaca ranks among them. It also borders Bolivia to the east and sits at over 3,800 meters above sea level. That is just a few meters below La Raya, the highest point (4,300 meters) between Cusco and Puno which we passed on our way here. Feeling the way I did here, I gave up on my dream to visit Rainbow Mountain which tops at 5,200 meters, more than twice that of Machu Picchu!
Boat made of totora reeds. The Lady Village Head
At this elevation, it’s interesting that the waters are very still, so calm it mirrors one’s reflection quite clearly and brightly! The lake claimed to be the birthplace of the Incas is 56% owned by Peru while the remaining 44% lies in La Paz, Bolivia. The lady you see on the photo above rules the village like a Mayor would. When we arrived, there was an assortment of fabrics, rugs, handicraft strewn on the floating island made of reeds, available for sale. Calls to mind my visit to Myanmar’s Inle Lake where I also found “floating villages”. The latter, I find more progressive though. Their weaving industry is far more superior and the villages have become self-sufficient with “floating gardens” complete with weaving factories, schools and even restaurants.
For SaleThe Village Chief’s Hubby
The closest city to the lake is Puno from where we took a private boat to reach Uros Village. The indigenous people who live here are called Uros themselves and they call the floating islands made of Totora reeds their home. I’ve read somewhere that should one fall into the lake, tradition dictates that no rescue will be done. That is, the person who fell into the lake would be considered an “offering” to the Earth Goddess”. Now, if you’re wondering about the lake’s depth, you bet it’s deep at 140 to 280 meters deep!
The boat ride took less than a half hour from the hotel’s wharf.
We tried riding the “reed boats” but felt safer back in our tiny motorboat sailing to the island of Taquile for a short hike for our lunch. Then back to our Puno lakefront hotel. I like our Sonesta Posada del Inca Hotel’s lakefront yard. Breakfast offers a stunning view of the waters and the yard has cozy gazebos and sitting areas. Perfect for cocktails at sundown.
The first time was in 2017 to celebrate my birthday in a country that has been in my bucket list far too long. And Machu Picchu has been listed for the longest time, waiting to be ticked off! This time around, I made sure I’m in the best of health to truly enjoy this magical Incan citadel, only to learn I unfortunately have high altitude issues. Not as bad as it was 7 years ago, but it was concerning enough to make me mindful. When our guide led the group to climb up further for a better view, I begged off and waited solo for them to climb down and fetch me — after nearly an hour in a spot with no shade but with a fantastic view of the citadel. You bet I took endless photos to a point I confused myself which images to keep. And with so many tour groups passing and pausing in my spot, I must have heard 5 versions of the Machu Picchu mystery.
Stayed the night in this hotel in Sacred Valley before the Machu Picchu visit.
The last time I was here, I was struck with altitude sickness. Guess what? I had it again. But this time, milder. The 2017 episode must have messed up my mind as I wasn’t prepared for it and honestly didn’t know what to do. This time around, I had more confidence despite the migraine, racing heartbeat and low oxygen levels. My oxymeter says oxygen dropping to 70 but I made some breathing exercises and managed to elevate it to 80+, still below the 95 level but the quick relief gave me comfort. When it dropped below 70, I thought the gadget wasn’t functioning right but knowing the brain is affected by lack of oxygen, I headed to the hotel’s reception and asked for an oxygen tank. Voila. Problem solved. And unlike before, I stayed calm so my heartbeat was better managed below 100. (It raced to 127 well past my bedtime back in 2017) All’s well!
At the start of the hike, our guide led us uphill “for a better view”. I kept nudging him to ask how much further and higher, but this excitable guide kept saying I’d get the energy from the Incan Citadel to forge ahead!Naaaaah. I put my foot down and reminded him that I have a heart condition and would not climb any higher. This is my second visit here and knew it wasn’t necessary to climb up for a better view. No way. The view I see is perfect for me. I just couldn’t have it better. Best view without the struggle! So the rest of the troop climbed higher and came back for me after an hour – in a spot that could do with some shade. I drained my tube of sunblock and must have smelled sweet enough for a swarm of bees to chase me some half hour while waiting.
We may not have solved the “mystery” of Machu Picchu but everyone in the group was very happy for the experience. Tired. Yes. Fatigued. Yes. But just the thought that we finally got here after 5 years of planning — with all the mishaps — made us all feel fulfilled. Yes, I think that’s what it felt like. For me, the fact that I realized I have altitude issues renders me mindful on how I travel. Regrettably, I had to abstain from all the pisco sour cocktails and vino. Drank myself to nearly drowning point 😂 that it disturbed my sleep. It was a struggle but I managed. I just feel bad skipping on the wine especially during happy hours. 😩
From Patagonia, we flew back to the capital of Santiago, Chile and then switched airports and took an international flight to Lima, Peru. Long drives, a domestic flight and a regional/international flight in a single day. All endured with a smile as we excitedly prepped for our way towards Machu Picchu, obviously the highlight of our Andean adventure. But first, Lima for a couple of nights. The Plaza de Armas in the Centro Hispanico, the famous “kiss” statue in the Love Park or Parque de Amor, the Parque Kennedy with its many resident cats, the Basilica Catedral de Lima and the Basilica y Convento de San Francisco (with the catacombs!), Larcomar for shopping and dining along the Pacific Ocean. If you’re booked in a hotel within or around Miraflores, you’d enjoy exploring the area with its tiny shops and sangucherias like La Lucha near Parque Kennedy — exactly as I remember them back when I first visited in 2017. I was eager to once more try the Pisco Sour, the chicha morada, lomo saltado, suspiro de lucuma, chirimoya, lechon sandwiches, chicharones and Inca Cola.
Barkada Photo at Parque de Amor under the Beso Statue
It was hot and humid but with a slight breeze. The men donned their shorts while the ladies wore their cotton shirts and sun dresses. Walked ahead of the group and skipped half of the catacombs tour, which I’ve done in 2017 and have no interest revisiting again. The other spots within the Centro Hispanico with all its colonial architecture — this I like. The only thing I failed to visit again in Lima is the fruit market where I enjoyed the sweetest chirimoya ever! Also, I wouldn’t mind a trip to Barranco to imbibe its more bohemian vibes and to try one of the Michelin-ranked restos in the capital. (Our Chilean visa issues threw a monkey wrench on our usual travel plans.)
Lima may not require many days to cover but it has its own charm. If you’re planning ahead, do make those restaurant reservations well ahead of time. This place is pure gastronomy where meat and seafood rank supreme. We didn’t do so badly in this department despite the lack of dining itinerary. Our last dinner as a group at Punta Azul in Mirafloreswas all seafood, wine and rice — as in all kinds of rice! Tried chicharonnes, pulpo, ceviche, scallops, and 4 rice dishes. Man, these Asians missed their rice!!!
Yummy sandwiches here — like lechon and chicharon! And the best fries.Dinner at Punta Azul. 👍
Ice, Ice Baby. Seriously chill mornings, sunrise at 7:30am and temps bottoming at -4 C with the wind factor. We landed in Punta Arenas where we stayed a night before moving to Puerto Natales where Torres del Paine is. Every trip has its highlights but I must admit this trip had way too many. The Chilean side of Patagonia may not present the total picture but seeing those mountain peaks, glaciers and blue lakes won’t fail to soothe your nerves after a long drive. Like a balm to your soul. Typically, I blog about my travels within 24 hours of the experience. Not this time. Took a while to put pen to paper (or finger to keyboard) to recall these pleasant, recent memories. Not sure why — was I too tired? Or was I wont to stir these Patagonia vibes which I refuse to shake off? At day’s end, I felt compelled to hug and thank our excellent guide Gabriella for all the fabulous adventures. Patagonia gave me a natural high.
Bundled up for the magic that unfolded before us. Located way south of Chilean Patagonia, the park truly mesmerized us with insanely blue skies and lakes, majestic mountain peaks and valleys. The closest city is Puerto Natales where we stayed 3 nights. The hotel alone where we stayed was a pleasant surprise with breakfasts served with stunning views. Somehow, we felt spoiled as we coped with sceneries after sceneries of mountain ranges, aqua blue lakes and impossibly sunny skies! Everything that should be seen was enjoyed sans cloud and fog covers. What a gift!
The catamaran cruise towards the Balmaceda and Serrano Glaciers was very relaxing. Part of the Bernardo O’ Higgins Park, the glaciers can be reached only by boat. We shared the boat with many other travelers just as eager as we are to see these natural wonders.The Park is the largest in Chile and one of top 4 in the world. The glaciers didn’t disappoint, nor the lunch served in Estancia Perales . Lamb and more lamb, along with the Estancia’s fine vino. Another glorious day!
Have you been to Punta Arenas?How about Puerto Natales to check out the Chilean side of Patagonia? Torre del Paine and the calving glaciers of Balmaceda y Serranoare certainly NOT to be missed. (But that segment of the trip deserves a separate blog.) And right now, I’m just too confused what to write about. Too many highlights! This trip to Chile has had its varied stressful episodes — like delayed visa issuances, many changes in itinerary, postponement from an originally-scheduled trip in 2020, 5 years in planning andall of 8 domestic, regional and international flights (including Peru) on this trip but we are not complaining. 😉
Punta Arenas. Flew from Santiago to this southern tip of the narrowest, longest country in the world. Hi there. Or as they say here, Hola!
Snow-capped mountains, the bluest waters, glaciers, waterfalls and fields of alfalfa. Plus the wildlife. Andean condors, armadillos, sheep, Patagonian horses, fox and guanacos. And if you’re seriously into wildlife, there are whales, sea lions, penguins, pumas, and flamingoes. Frankly, we’re quite happy seeing the Andean condors. Nature at its best!
Replica of the NAO Victoria , the first ship to circumnavigate the world.
After some days resting our butts in Santiago, Chile we flew south to Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales. The Chilean Patagonia. We had good luck and timed it perfectly in the weather department. While temps hovered between negatives and positive 7 Celsius, the sun was out the 5 days we were here. Every mountain peak showed up! Even the clouds parted into unique patterns, letting the sun beam for better-lighted snapshots. Slight showers, snow flurries, but only for brief moments. And those peaks and valleys showed up in all its clear glory, making photography buffs in our group grow insanely excited and happy. Same goes with the camwhores who have stacked up megabytes in their photo galleries. Our gizmo’s batteries drained and storage full. But that slight setback was ignored completely as we just couldn’t move on from the landscapes, seascapes we saw before us. Nothing can upset my dreamy Patagonia vibes here. The clouds above and the rolling waves from both the South Atlantic and South Pacific Oceans cheered us up. The Strait of Magellan was a good reminder of how Magellan discovered this southern Chilean strip before navigating onwards to discover the Philippine Islands in the 1520’s. Hmmm, we share some history here. And it’s interesting how we each “turned out”.
The Barkada in Fundo San Fernando where we had a soupy beef dish that reminded us of pochero. Hiking is always a happy adventure for this group. At Fundo San Fernando’s Parque Keuken
For many of our meals, lamb ruled. Ranchos and estancias provided meaty dishes with portions overly generous that carnivores may choose to live here. As for seafood, I enjoyed their ceviches, pulpo, and filete de cormoran. Been searching for the “Chilean sea bass” but it appears this is pure branding since the real fish is simply referred to as corvina just like the dorado or salmon commonly available. For sure, they grow real sweet tomatoes and onions — just these 2 sprinkled with olive oil and salt enough to prep your appetite. Coffee was a disappointment though, at least those served in our hotels. I rather expected strong, quality coffee thinking Colombia is in the same region. Thus, our morning runs included trips to cafés to pick up our morning brew. This in seriously chill mornings where the sun rises at 7:30 am.
Across our lovely hotel in Puerto Natales is this park fronting the sea.
Between Punta Arenas where the airport is located and Puerto Natales where Torre del Paine can be found, is a nearly 3 hour drive. It must be lonely driving these well-paved roads in winter. But on second thought, those towers covered in snow in all its resplendent beauty can’t fail to cheer anyone up. Just lovely.
From an urban landscape to rustic villages lining the coast of the longest and narrowest country in the world, it took nearly 2 hours driving from Santiago to Isla Negra. One of Chile’s famous citizens was Pablo Neruda, a poet and I must add, a full-blooded romantic. Makes me wonder if all poets are indeed romantics. His two-storey house in Isla Negra is one of 3 — the other two can be found in Santiago and Valparaiso. The one in Isla Negra is an oceanfront lovely house filled with curio and childhood souvenirs that give you a better appreciation of Señor Pablo.
There are 14 “stations” where the audio guide details the items found in each. Here’s one audio guide I truly enjoyed. Whoever crafted the narratives are so good that one feels the sentimental values and laugh at the humor just listening to the well-articulated descriptions. The rooms and halls are a tad tiny — as Neruda wanted a house designed like a boat — which enhanced a visitor’s personal encounter. Most rooms have large glass windows facing the Pacific Ocean where waves wildly crash the boulders. It was almost violent but still a lovely sight that must have inspired many of Neruda’s poems.
It is a pity that photography is not allowed inside the house. But someone in our group snapped some photos which I’m sharing here. If I were bold enough, I would have taken a picture of the bedroom with its crocheted bedcovers and the living room which looked more like an antique shop. Oh, there’s also the small writing room which Señor Pablo considered his “refuge” and where many of his poems were written. I can just imagine him seated behind that desk, staring at the ocean and listening to the sound of waves . As one steps outside the house, the cold wind slaps your face and perks your senses awake. Sitting still on the benches is a welcome luxury. Bathed in sunlight and lightly sprayed with ocean mist, the outdoor spots truly offer a meditative break — a pleasure.
Finally joined up with my travel buddies who flew in from Manila to Sydney to catch a connecting flight into Santiago, Chile. The Qantas flight from Down Under took 12 hours where I hardly had a wink. Shouldn’t complain since my buddies endured another 8 hours plus all the waiting time at the 2 airports for a gruelling 28 hours. By the time we landed in the country’s capital, we were all wasted. But pleasant weather welcomed us in Santiago, named after one of our favorite saints. Hearing and speaking Spanish is both familiar and a struggle for many of us, but the excitement balances all sentiments and dulls the anxieties.
Our Pisco Sour and Empanada Outing on Day 1Cool early evenings. Perfect cocktail hours.
A very manageable walking distance from our hotel is the Costanera Mall in the quiet, posh neighborhood of Providencia. That’s how we spotted La Pikada along with the laundromat we’d use before we move out of the capital on Day 6. The Mall is huge, houses over 300 stores and the Sky Tower which is touted as the highest sky deck in South America. It’s a good place for shopping and some dining. We tried a bistecca and empanadas here before walking back to our hotel. The next day, we explored the city’s Mercado Central. Lunch was seafood in Donde Blanca amid stall after stall of clams and fish varieties from Merluza to dorado to salmon to a new find, Reineta (pomfret). The Resto transformed this assortment of sea creatures to stews, soup, ceviches or simply grilled. Paired well with Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and a red vino. Meatless, on an Easter Week!
Donde Blanca RestaurantA Seafood Stew. I’m all for clams, mussels and scallops.
We took it real easy the first 3 days. The hotel’s veranda is our designated spot for cocktails starting at 6pm. We exchanged notes especially on where to buy and dine at the end of each day. Dealing with jet lag is a struggle so the first 3 days took care of that. On the 4th day, we tried to cover as much of the city as possible. Still, we managed on a very leisurely pace. Well, it isn’t like we had to tick off all the boxes. We particularly enjoyed the stroll around the park. With an urban landscape as a background, it was refreshing to find ponds, gardens and kids’ playgrounds. It’s the city’s oxygen tank where nearly 40% of the nation’s population work and live.
Waiting for our seafood lunch Fishy fishy Spot
Then there’s the Plaza Armas. A typical Latino square with the cathedral as the centrepiece. It is the heartbeat of the city from where many folks congregate, many eateries flourish and where many tourists never failed to visit as a must-destination. Buskers abound too, from singers to dancers to jugglers. And so do the resident pickpockets. Just the typical scenario in any capital. Cuidate!
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