#19 DAY TRIP TO AVILA

I have been to Avila before, yet longed to go back again. All unplanned, but I managed to visit Avila 2 days in a row. How? There’s this tour we signed up for last Sunday : El Escorial and Valle de Los Caidos. We didn’t know that the same tour likewise included a visit to Avila. Which is fine. Except that the day before, we had friends who signed up for a tour of Segovia AND AVILA. At the last minute, one couldn’t make it…..so they asked me if I’d want to sub. How’s that???

 

 

 

 

Ancient hill-top Avila has been declared a Unesco “Heritage of Mankind” city, and is famous for its intact medieval city walls and 90 towers dating back to the 11th century. The city was the birthplace of the mystic writer Saint Teresa of Jesus (1515-82) and is an important pilgrimage site, with quite a good number of churches built in the Romanesque and Gothic style.

 

 

First order of the day was a visit to the San Vicente Cathedral. Construction of this church spanned 200 years from the 12th to the 14th century. The church is outside, not inside the city walls. The main door with intricate wood carvings, the retablos and the crypt are the highlights of this church visit.

 

 

 

 

On the first visit, we had an honest-to-goodness walking tour of Avila. We even had to ask permission from Señora Maria Jesus (si, that’s her name) to give us a couple of minutes to buy yemas. They say the yema uses a secret recipe of no less than Sta. Teresa de Avila. Judging by the number of stalls selling yema, it sure looks like it’s no secret anymore. Now, be careful with these yemas. That small ball tastes like it’s made up of a dozen yolks in it. I’m good for just one. Two will give me a headache.

 

 

 

 

You may start out visiting as a pilgrim….. until you get tempted to buy some of the cookies irreverently called “Tetillas de Monja”. And please don’t ask me to translate (*blush). Then you completely get off the pilgrimage mode once you ask for “bolas de los frailes”. Dear me, who ever thought of naming these pastries as such are definitely raking it in as 1 out of 5 tourists I met bought a box or two. Tee hee.

 

 

 

 

Avila’s Plaza Mayor may not be as impressive as similar plazas in major cities but if you’re looking for a place to eat, there are several choices. Other tourists would likely not give it a second look but I bet many Pinoys stopped for some camwhoring in La Bruja Cafe and Bar. Need I tell you why?

 

 

 

 

Lunch was not in La Bruja. We were soooo hungry by the time we reached Avila (the second time around) that we decided we’d do lunch first and then just ride the “choo-choo” train navigating around and inside the walled city. Besides, we were here just a day before, remember? Restaurante Las Murallas is just at the mouth of the walled city’s gate, where one also takes the small train ride, PLUS it has a store selling yemas and Tetillas! No bolas or pelotas de frailes today (*more blush).

 

 

 

 

The train goes at 4pm. We nearly had to drag ourselves away from our lunch of cochinillo, cordero, gambas, paella, patatas revolconas. Way too much. How we stuff ourselves! This pilgrimage has turned into a food trip instead. Not fair to our dear St. Therese of Jesus. So, forgive me if I end my blog here. I need to write a more serious piece on the good saint. Lo Siento😔😔😔

 

 

#18 MADRID BLOG SERIES: “Noynoying” While Visiting Rizal’s Favorite Haunts

We started with Part 1 in #9 Madrid Blog Series. This Part 2 has more to do with my “Noynoying” moments here in Madrid. 💤💤💤 It’s been a month and a week now. Done with apartment hunting, appliance shopping, scrubbing, sweeping, cleaning and all that pile of bedlinen and towel laundry. So before I start feeling truly domesticated here in Madrid, I stepped out in search of more of Rizal’s favorite haunts. But not without a few moments of “Noynoying”. The “branding” started while I’m away, and I’ve got to say it’s funny and highly irreverent. Disculpe (“excuse me”) ….. for giving in to the temptation of actually using the brand for a blog title. 😜

 

 

 

 

The above photos were taken from the Philippine Embassy in Madrid. Jardin Rizal was dedicated in memory of Dr. Jose Rizal on his 150th birth anniversary last June 19, 2011. The Juan Luna Painting — España y Filipinas — couldn’t be more appropriate. One passes this lovely reproduction upon entrance to the Office of the Ambassador.

 

 

 

 

Earlier, I walked around the block 👣behind Teatro Español where I found Hotel Ingles, Los Gabrielles (now a cafe bar with flamenco 💃dinner shows) and Viva Madrid. I also wrote separate blogs 📖on Parque Retiro and Avenida Rizal/Islas de Filipinas where you find a replica monument of the hero. ⛲ This time, let me take you to places where JPR lived 🏠 (there were many — to a point that I felt JPR has been hopping from place to place), studied and joined protests.

 

 

 

 

The Congreso de Los Diputados, formerly the Las Cortes Españolas, is the site where Filipinos including our very own heroes used to lobby for equal rights with Spanish citizens. This site, which is a stone’s throw from the Museo de Prado is where the Pinoy community rallied for Philippine autonomy. Makibaka! There is also the Ateneo de Madrid where Rizal studied English, did research and watched plays. His second residence along Calle Manuel Fernández Gonzáles, 8 (formerly C/ Visitación) from May to June 1883 is right across Viva Madrid, one of his favorite haunts. I can just imagine Rizal and other propagandists meeting and dining here after a few drinks at Los Gabrielles off the corner.

 

 

 

 

Did I just say dining and wining? Those nocturnal activities, in between studies, art exhibits and rallies? Por supuesto! Our heroes were thousands of miles and oceans away from family and country. No internet. No television. No cellphones. No Facebook, no games! No wonder they wrote many letters! 📮📫Surely, they needed some moments of pleasure and leisure to break the monotony. And mind you, they were dead serious and passionate about their struggles for freedom and recognition. Far from “Noynoying”? You tell me. 😏

 

 

#17 MADRID BLOG SERIES: Plaza Mayor in Madrid

The main plaza or Plaza Mayor is just a few steps from Puerta del Sol in Madrid. Your best bet is to take the Metro and get off in Sol. To make things even more right, be sure to cross the street from Sol towards the Ayuntamiento or City Hall and stand firmly with your feet on that marker that says “Kilometro O”. A very touristy behavior, but who cares?

 

 

 

 

To the right of the Ayuntamiento are 2 streets both ending in the Palacio Real and Almudena Cathedral area. The street on the right is Calle del Arenal where you would be tempted to drop by for churros con chocolate at Chocolateria San Gines. So take the road on the left instead. That’s Calle Mayor where you walk past Museo de Jamon ….. Oops.

 

 

 

 

On your left side, watch out for an alley that leads to Plaza Mayor. I think this is Calle Felipe III. Take this alley and be sure to drop in on this small shop where you can check out your “apellido” and buy a keychain with your family heraldry or insignia or emblem….. I found mine, and my family name like many Filipinos has Spanish roots. Mine is a special clan of mercenary warriors noted for their bravery. Paid soldiers!

 

 

 

 

Within the square you may want to visit the Tourist Information Center. You can pick up maps here and check out some guided tours. Many chose to do the “hop on, hop off” red tour bus for €20. If you’re not keen on walking and would just want to sightsee from your bus seat (it’s open on the 2nd level), then this is for you. Otherwise, take the unlimited tourist pass for €9.30 (1day) or €13 (3 days) which you can use taking the metro or bus and explore on your own. After all, the metro stops for the tourist sites are clearly marked and Madrid has a superb metro system.

 

 

 

 

Again, you’d find many street artists — should I call them plaza artists? OR buskers?  — around the statues of King Philip III and the corners of the square. Many dining outlets too — mainly catering to the tourist crowd, I guess, judging by their patrons. You can have your paella and jamon fix in any of the tascas here. (Tascas mean “local gathering place”) Or you may simply have that sangria or cafe con leche with some tapas (appetizers) in any of the open-air bars and just people-watch. Buen provecho!

 

 

#16 MADRID BLOG SERIES: Food Porn @Mercado de San Miguel

Beyond Puerta del Sol, past Plaza Mayor, is this most charming mercado like no other. I wasn’t looking for it when I found it. And that was on my Day 2 in Madrid. Since then, I would always drop in whenever I’m in the area. Just love it here!

 

 

 

 

Each time I drop in, the place is jampacked! Noisy, crowded, so lively, so Spanish! I don’t know how these Madrileños manage to gesture with their hands while holding a wine glass and a croqueta or Quezo on the other hand. And you know what I mean when I say “gesture with their hands” , or with their shoulders! Think only the Italians come close.

 

 

 

 

No chairs, no stools. You and your friends around a cocktail table and drink, eat like there’s no tomorrow. Tried the paella, the croquetas, jamon and some Quezo Manchego. Next time, I’d try the yogurt. Saw a photo of Prince Charles and his dear Camilla trying out some favors in that stall.

 

 

 

 

And all that seafood from fried boquerones and sardines to steamed and grilled oysters and squids. Plus don’t forget the chupitos, baby eels, and so much more — in tapas or racion sizes! Nom Nom Nom. This is my neighborhood. I feel happy just people-watching here. That, while munching, makes me forget to take more photos. But these would do, won’t they? I’m busy ☺

 

 

 

Errr……lastly, go and have that drink. And I don’t mean just sangria.

 

#15 MADRID BLOG SERIES: Almudena Cathedral and Crypt

The first time I went to the Almudena Cathedral, I wasn’t expecting much. After all, Madrid allegedly pales in comparison with other major cities around Spain in terms of antiquity. In plain terms, it means Madrid’s sacred destinations are not that “OLD”.

 

 

 

 

Dedicated to the Virgin of Almudena, the construction of the cathedral began in 1883 but was completed a century later in 1993. The name Almudena comes from Almudaina, Arabic for “wheat-store”, because there was one close by.

 

 

 

 

The story goes that when the Muslims were about to conquer Madrid, the Madrileño Christians hid a statue of the Blessed Virgin Mary behind a wall to spare it from being abused and profaned by the conquering Muslims. When King Alphonsus VI regained the city, the wall miraculously crumbled, revealing the statue of our Lady.

 

 

 

 

What the Church may have lacked in terms of architectural credit and historical significance, this Neo-gothic edifice made up for with its Neo-Romanesque Crypt which houses a 16th century image of the Virgin of Almudena. Kind of creepy inside the crypt, helped along by the background music as one moves from altar to altar, crypt to crypt. As I walked OVER some graves of presumably distinguished Madrileños, adorned with potted plants and flowers, I couldn’t help wondering if this “real estate” is priced highest on a per square meter basis in this corner of the world. (Disculpe, for this irreverence)

 

 

 

 

If you happen to be in the area of the Palacio Real, make sure to drop by the Cathedral, and then the Crypt. You can also buy some religious souvenirs on your way in or out, like what I got (that’s the photo of the 16th century painting of the Virgin of Almudena). Then before heading home or back to your hotel, you have the option to spend the rest of the day exploring the gardens around the Royal Palace or walk back to Puerta del Sol, passing the Opera. If you’re too tired, then take that metro ride from the Opera Metro Station.

 

 

#14 MADRID BLOG SERIES: Palacio Real and Its Gardens

Palaces, castles and humongous cathedrals fascinate every Filipino. 🏰The grandeur, the pomp and pageantry associated with royalty is simply not our reality. Even Malacanañ Palace is really a token 2-story palace compared with what one finds in other parts of the world.

 

 

 

 

Palacio Real literally translates to “Royal Palace”, much like Real Madrid (of football fame) means “Royal Madrid”. 👑All of 2,800 rooms covering a floor area of 135,000 square meters, it is THE largest palace in all of Europe. So…. Buckingham Palace, move over!

 

 

 

 

The present King has chosen to live with his royal family 👸elsewhere (Palacio de la Zarzuela) on the outskirts of Madrid. Thus, the State-owned Palace is only used for official or state ceremonies. At the time I visited, the Palace was closed owing to some State ceremony. Though I missed viewing the interiors of this architectural wonder, I joined many others – Madrileños and tourists alike – waiting through all the pageantry. Changing not only of the guards, but also of the horses! And my, those guards are all cuties, I kid you not! Take it from this over-the-hill hag….. I hardly use those words to describe MEN. But I must confess that I do find King Juan Carlos a HUNK very, very charming!

 

 

 

 

And look at these horses! What is it called — the Spanish Riding Academy? But that’s in Vienna, near the Hofburg Palace. Confused? The Riding School in Vienna was so named because the “noble” horses originated from the Iberian Peninsula. I know zilch about horses but I have read that the Spanish and Arabic horses rank up there among other breeds. No wonder they rub elbows (or butts?) with royalty. ☺

 

 

 

 

The Palace is just a short walk from the Opera. I took the metro 🚉 up to Opera and walked on the right side of the royal theatre till I reached the Plaza de Oriente, a well-manicured garden on the side of the royal palace. I also didn’t miss the chance to stroll along the Sabatini Garden where I felt I intruded on many a romantic trysts. 💗 Oooooops!

 

 

#13 MADRID BLOG SERIES: Parque de Retiro Es Rizal’s Favorito

Here’s another favorite haunt of our national hero while he was here in Madrid. Can’t blame him. Parque de Retiro, which used to be exclusive to royalty, is such a pleasure to be in anytime of day. Just take the Linea 2 (red line) metro 🚉 to Retiro and it’s right there as you exit out of the station.

 

 

 

 

Now, I wonder how many times Rizal went on dates in this park. Remember, JPR lived a frugal life here in Madrid and a paseo around Parque de Retiro would have been a cheap but romantic way to take out a señorita.

 

 

 

 

These days, you’d find street musicians 🎺🎷🎸🎤 and illegal vendors (selling their wares on laid out rugs)👜💼👢 around the park. It was a bit of a challenge to take a good photo of the pond and the monuments without these characters. And then there are the lovers. 👫💑 Of all kinds.

 

 

 

 

Sundays are crowded in Parque de Retiro where locals enjoy just strolling around the gardens, 🚲biking, renting boats 🚤 to row around the pond, drinking their cafe con leche ☕ or cafe cortado, shopping for “smuggled” bags 👜peddled by vendors on blankets or rugs laid out on pavements, skateboarding, or simply shooting the breeze while listening to street musicians. 🎤

 

 

 

 

JPR must have been so inspired by this ex-royal garden that he named his place of exile in Dapitan as “Mi Retiro.” This is also the place where an Igorot woman died in the dead of winter while “on exhibit” in the Exposición de Filipinas in 1887. The exhibit meant to showcase Philippine artifacts, art works and botanical specimens which included “sample Philippine tribe peoples” like the Igorots, Manobos and Negritos. You can just imagine how JPR criticized Spain for its violation of Filipinos’ human rights which resulted in the death of this Igorot human specimen, while other tribe “samples” contracted pneumonia due to the bitter cold.

 

 

 

 

Tsk. Tsk. It’s stories like these that make me ever so grateful for the sacrifices and bravery of our national heroes. As a reminder of what they went through as against the freedoms that we now enjoy, one can’t help but lament how much we have forgotten. Truly, we as a nation need to reconnect with our past so we do not fail to take things for granted and more importantly, to regain our national identity and pride as a people.

 

Aaaaahhhh…… Enough said. Or written. 📝

#12 MADRID BLOG SERIES: Searching for Luna In Madrid’s Senado

Three men fascinate me. Jose Rizal. Ernest Hemingway. Juan Luna. I suspect it is the wild side and mystery about each of these men that attracted me to them. 😉Like you admire them one second. And wish to mother them the next sec.

 

 

 

 

Back home, Juan Luna’s “Spoliarium” in the National Art Gallery is the highlight of any afternoon spent at the Museum. I’m glad this masterpiece was given ample space to view the obra maestro in all its glory. When my family went on a trip to Ilocos, a visit to the Luna Shrine was most definitely the highlight of that family holiday. When I heard there would be a lecture on Luna and his Art at the GSIS Museum, I thought it was a good idea to combine the lecture with a viewing of Parisien Life, that most controversial GSIS acquisition. When I learned Luna’s “Battle of Lepanto” hangs in the Senate Hall in Madrid, I knew I couldn’t leave Madrid without viewing it!

 

 

I sent an email to the Madrid Senado’s website if I may be allowed entry. 🇪🇸 There was an exchange of emails between me and Mercedes who was most kind and accommodating. We fixed a date and time, then she put me in a group of visiting Spanish ladies and apologized that the “tour” would be in Spanish. Bueno!

 

 

Of course, no photographs were allowed. We were ushered inside a hall with 4 murals of Spanish painters. One 1859 mural almost tempted me to cheat on Mercedes and take a photo with my iPhone. “La Coronacion de D. Manuel Quintana” (who is he?) by Luis Lopez Piqueo, huge at 428 x 561, is slightly bigger than Juan Luna’s Battle of Lepanto (350 x 550) which hangs on one wall along a narrow corridor. Mercedes was kind enough to open the meeting room across Luna’s mural just so I can have a good view of what I came for. She spoke lengthily about Juan Luna and why I’m so interested in seeing it. Unfortunately, she spoke in Spanish while all the distinguished-looking Doña Victorinas were eyeing me with new interest. 😊

 

 

 

 

Having seen what I came for, Mercedes invited me to stay on to visit the Senate Hall itself where she said I can take photographs. It looked more like a theatre! Then, we were led to the Library which was really, really awesome. There was this man reading old periodicals while we ladies roamed about with oohs and aaahs (a universal language, I soon learned). The lighting was bad if you ask me, but there were reading lamps. I sneaked a photo of the very Spanish-looking gentleman inside the library just as we were led out to visit another hall in the Senado. This time, it’s a more modern hall. On the way out, there were again paintings of contemporary Spanish painters. I saw one of Joan Mìro. And I dare not cheat on Mercedes again as she reminded everyone that photography is not allowed in these areas. Which is fine — I’m happy with my snapshot of the Spanish Señor inside the Library. 😉

 

 

 

 

As I thanked Mercedes for a lovely one hour tour of the Senado, she handed me books as souvenirs. Now, isn’t that muy bien? Ha sido un placer en Madrid Sendo. Muchas gracias, Mercedes!

 

 

#11MADRID BLOG SERIES: The Street Artists of Madrid

They do it for a living. I dare not say “begging artists” simply because they don’t. They offer their artistry, and one is encouraged to “donate” out of appreciation. Mind you, there is pride in their work too.

 

 

 

 

Right in Puerta del Sol, you’d find lots of them buskers. In fact, you may be standing right next to one. They may appear like stone, marble or wooden statues…….until they start poking at each other, bow, or turn towards you.

 

 

 

 

There was one busker I saw almost everyday, in various places. Once at Puerta del Sol. The next time in Plaza del Oriente near Palacio Real, the 3rd time as I was waiting for my metro ride!

 

 

 

 

More than just song and dance numbers, some of these artists play mime, display motor skills with their skateboards or roller blades, make beautiful music with crystal glasses, dress up like Hollywood celebrities, strum their guitars or sing opera songs. You find them in plazas, theatre areas, parks, inside the metro stations, or even inside the trains !

 

 

 

 

Then, of course, there are those who are not as creative……

 

 

#10 MADRID BLOG SERIES: Chocolateria San Gines OR Valor?

I have earlier blogged on my first desayuno (breakfast) of churros con chocolate here in Madrid. Where else, but in Chocolateria San Gines. There, I reminisced about my first taste of the churros con chocolate “to die for” back in 2002. I remember telling my nephew then that when I grow old, I would love to put up a coffee bar or Chocolateria like this where a corner table will be reserved for me….. much like the owner — an old man and his dog we met back then.

 

 

 

 

When I blogged about getting lost tracing my steps back to Chocolateria San Gines, and actually learning (the hard but delicious way) how easy it could have been to find the place (just off Calle del Arenal, walking from Puerta del Sol), a couple of friends suggested I also try the churros con chocolate at Valor. I did. More than that, I also tried a boxful of Valor chocolates!

 

 

 

 

After more than a couple of weeks setting up house here in Madrid, I finally found time to check out this other chocolate shop. I was surprised to find that it is so near Puerta del Sol. Well actually, much nearer Plaza Callao. A metro ride to Plaza Callao, walking towards Postigo de San Martin, it was delightful to find Chocolateria y Bomboneria Valor.

 

 

 

 

So, what’s the verdict? Admittedly, Valor is “better located” as Chocolateria San Gines is actually in an alley behind the Iglesia San Gines. Surprisingly, I also met 3 Filipinas waiting on tables in Valor. Now, some say Valor’s interiors are better, especially as one can look out to a livelier street scene in this corner off Plaza Callao. True. But I do like the old charm of San Gines.

 

 

 

 

The chocolate in Valor is mas sabroso. But I prefer the churros of San Gines! So if I were to choose between the 2, I would really rather get lost searching for Chocolateria San Gines. So there. ☕☕☕